Schiller in the Sand

Shylock says that “Some men … when the bagpipe sings i'th'nose, /Cannot contain their urine.” I almost knew what Shylock had in mind last month in Amman, when I heard the Jordanian military retirees’ bagpipe band.

This works for me on so many levels. For starters, it was an old Roman theatre. But closer to the time, I felt I had to remember John Bagot Glubb, “Glubb Pasha,” imperialist and chauvinist, and virtual creator of the Arab Legion, that corps of Bedouin nomads who became the best and most professional army in the Arab world. Did Glubb design those khaki uniforms, I wonder? And are they as uncomfortable as they appear in the desert heat? I assume he is responsible for the bagpipes; perhaps also the repertoire? "Scotland the Brave," of course, and “The Campbells are Coming.” But "Amazing Grace?" And—this is where I nearly lost it—Schiller’s “Ode to Joy.”

Seid umschlungen, Millionen!
Diesen Kuß der ganzen Welt!
Brüder, über'm Sternenwelt
muß ein lieber Vater wohnen.

O you millions, let me embrace you!

Let this kiss be fore the entire

Brothers—a loving Father must

Dwell above the tent of stars.

A dozen old Arab men in khaki uniforms, playing Schiller’s paean to universal brotherhood and peace. I have never seen the like of it. Did I mention that it was an old Roman theatre?