From Eastern Europe, the best restaurants we found in Prague and Budapest, respectively:
Czerny Kohut, Vojtesska 9, Prague, near the National Theatre. A true mom-and-pop operation with pop slaving over a hot stove while mom runs the front of the house. Thoughtful, carefully-prepared Czech fusion, if there is such a thing. They got an appreciative NYT review a few Sundays ago. They say that the review perked up business, but we were still able to get a table.
Café Kor, V. Sas 17, Budapest. Tactful, attentive service (good wine suggestions) and yummy peasant food in an unprepossessing storefront. Lots of locals.
We also dined at Gundel (XIV Allakerti ut. 2, Budapest), no doubt the most famous restaurant in Budapest, if not in this part of the planet. You go more for atmosphere than for food, but Gundel probably exemplifies “old world charm” in the strict sense. Liveried waiters, carpets on the floor, and a string orchestra that looks like it got itself together for the funeral of the Archduke. Worth it for the experience. Korso in the Bristol Hotel, Mahlerstrasse 2,A-1010 Vienna, has some of the same atmosphere, though not quite so distinctive.
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